A new year means planning new adventures, ideally with bikes involved. Whenever I’ve had a bike in tow (or awaiting me at the destination), you can bet I’ve been obsessing over the tools required to assemble, adjust, and/or maintain the thing – all without excess and needless bulk.
This edition of Threaded looks at how to assemble a functional, yet minimalist, tool kit to pack when travelling with a bike. A lot of this article assumes airplane travel (checked luggage) where weight and size are at a premium, but it can equally apply to creating a tool kit to pack in a car glovebox or perhaps just to take within a gear bag to events. Think 1 kg of tools and consumables, rather than 10 kg. Put another way, this is a geeky weight-weenies edition of Threaded.
Of course there are professional mechanics who travel the world for various reasons and need the kitchen sink, or at least, the caravan sink. There are also many home mechanics who want all their tools in a portable case. I’ll get to such portable tool kits in future. Similarly, we aren’t talking today about what tools to pack for taking with you on a ride – although a few of the tools covered here are popular picks for more adventurous/remote rides.
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Random tips for better bike travel
This article also isn’t about how to pack a bike or best protect it, but I do have a few quick tips to share on the themes of happier and easier wrenching, lighter packing, and just generally less chance of things going wrong.
First and foremost – and hopefully an obvious one – the bike you’re planning to travel with should be in excellent and well-serviced condition. There should be no niggling issues, bolts that are on the edge of rounding, creaks you’ve been ignoring, or parts you know you’ve worn through. Get these sorted well in advance of your travel day, leaving enough time to ride the bike and ensure it is in fact, fixed. Having full confidence in your equipment should make you confident to leave some of the bulkier tools and spares behind. It’s incredibly unlikely you’ll need a spare cable and cable cutter if your cables are fresh (*cough* Caley *cough*).
A less obvious tip is to start the trip with a pristinely clean drivetrain. Packing a bike with a dirty drivetrain sucks, and not only will it make a mess at your destination, it’ll spoil your case and packaging, too. This is one area where hot-melt wax (or a good drip wax) rules supreme. If going the wax route, pack a small bottle of good drip-on wax to use as a top-up lube.
I prefer to remove rotors from the wheels for disc-brake-equipped bikes going into a regular bike case or bag. I’ve had a few rotors get bent in transit over the years, and it’s a quick task to remove them (especially if they’re centerlock). Once removed, I’ll wrap them together in paper towel (held on with an elastic band or masking tape), and then ideally into a clean ziplock bag. From there, I’ll find a pocket that’s safe from an external hit. If you’d prefer to leave them on, then consider getting some disc protectors from a local shop (they’re often used in the shipping of new bikes) and wrapping the rotors with some paper towel in case they’re in contact with a once-greasy part of the case.
Got a bike with electronic shifting (or dropper, or suspension, etc)? I always recommend travelling with your charger and a spare coin-cell shifter battery (if on newer wireless), just in case. For SRAM eTap/AXS bikes, be sure to remove the derailleur batteries to ensure they’re not keeping your components awake for the whole duration of travel. For Shimano, unplugging the rear derailleur wire will help to ensure accidental shifts can’t be triggered.
Derailleur hangers are one of the most commonly damaged parts when travelling with a bike. Some cases/bags/boxes do a great job of shielding the rear derailleur from potential impact, but if your case leaves the component vulnerable, then I’d suggest unbolting the rear derailleur (again, assuming you’re comfortable with the task).
If you need to remove your seatpost for travel, then clearly mark its height prior to moving it. I like to use a wrap of electrical tape for this, but a silver (gold or white work, too) Sharpie marker is another solid option. And similarly, if you need to remove your bars, I recommend marking two reference dots alongside the stem faceplate to assist with replicating your original position.
Finally, a few bits of plastic can go a long way to smoother travel. Use those disc brake pad spacers (ask your local bike shop if you don’t have any) in case of accidental lever pulling. And without a wheel in place, you should put something within the dropout of the frame/fork to prevent potential squishing (again, assuming your case doesn’t already offer this). Bike shops will once again have options, there are dedicated products you can buy, or for thru-axle frames, I’ve found cutting some PVC pipe of the correct diameter down to match your hub width (e.g. 100, 110, 142, or 148 mm) is best.
The case for using real tools
Many people are happy to use a multi-tool for regular wrenching. I prefer not to.
I see most multi-tools as ride-specific tools. They’re intentionally compact and easy to carry, but that often comes at the expense of how well they perform as a real tool. While there are good-quality multi-tools, many can compromise the fitment with a fastener. Then, consider that multi-tools typically also compromise general comfort in the hand, available leverage, control, speed of use, and even access to tightly confined bolts.
For these reasons I prefer to travel with weight-conscious and space-efficient versions of real hand tools. I want to be sure that I can assemble and disassemble a bike with absolute ease, and not waste time doing it. In some cases, these proper tools can double as tools to carry on a ride; in other cases, they’re in addition to.
Tools are personal, and there are many paths to the same river. Below are what I’ve learned to be best at keeping bulk/weight down while still keeping the tasks of assembly, maintenance, and packing enjoyable.
Just the necessities
OK, onto the tools. Assuming you’re packing a bike for flight, the best place to start is with the tools you’ll need for disassembly.
The specifics of this will depend on the type of bike you have, its size, and the case/bag/box of choice. Generally speaking, many cases require the removal (or undoing) of a handlebar, the wheels, pedals, and sometimes the seatpost, too. For some soft-sided bike bags, and where the person is confident in doing so, I’d also recommend removing the rear derailleur from its hanger and the disc rotors from the wheels (if applicable).
All of these tasks should only require a few basic tools, likely a few sizes of hex (or Torx) keys, maybe a pedal wrench, and possibly something to undo disc rotors with. Ideally, also add a small portable torque wrench for the safe reassembly of your handlebar and seatpost.
While it can (and does) vary based on the trip, I like the versatiltiy of a short-length set of ball-ended hex keys that span 1.5-5 mm (many hex key specialist brands offer such a set). It’s unlikely you’ll need much leverage in this reduced size and so it’s an easy way to save weight and space. Meanwhile, I prefer to carry a long-length 6 mm hex key for use on thru-axles and some pedals.
Things can get creative if you require an 8 mm hex key for your pedals. Of course you could just pack any old 8 mm hex key, but where’s the fun in that? Instead, a good bit of weight can be shaved with more speciality options – some of which are quite cheap.
One such option is the Topeak 8 mm socket (sold separately or with the Mini9 multi-tool) that converts a 6 mm hex to an 8 mm. Another option is the 8 mm socket in Wolf Tooth’s Pack Wrench line, something I’d only suggest if you also needed the Pack Wrench for centerlock lockrings. At other times, such as when packing a bit-based tool, I’ve packed a long-length PB Swiss 5 mm hex key plus the company’s 470M adapter, which converts the 5 mm to a 1/4″ bit-holder that can be used for higher-torque 6 mm and 8 mm applications in a pinch.
Of course, bit-based tools can be a worthy substitute for most tasks (some exceptions apply). There are countless options here, but for this purpose, I highly rate the bit-based sets that double as a portable torque wrench (a category of tools I just recently did an extensive comparative review of). I’ve happily travelled with sets such as the PrestaCycle TorqRatchet GO, Silca T-Ratchet + Ti-Torque Kit, or Topeak Ratchet Rocket Lite NTX. Beneficially, those pocket-sized torque tools can double as a ride-friendly multi-tool if space and weight is at a premium.
If your pedals require an actual pedal wrench, then I’d suggest something with a medium-length handle. Normally I’m a big proponent of buying the longest pedal wrench you can for the workshop, but for travel, home mechanic-focussed options are typically best. Park Tool, PRO Bike Gear, Pedro’s, and many others offer budget-friendly pedal wrenches that are significantly smaller and lighter than their respective professional versions. I’ve even just packed a 15 mm cone wrench in the past, but your hands will hate you if the pedal is tight.
Got a disc-brake bike, and like me, you’re keen to remove the rotors? Hopefully, it’s quick-and-easy centerlock and not six-bolt. For centerlock, my top choice has steadily remained the machined-aluminium Wolf Tooth Pack Wrench (US$50). If you’ve got external-type lockrings, then just the standalone Pack Wrench does the trick, while those with internal-type lockrings will need Wolf Tooth’s matching Shimano cassette socket (US$20). I’ve yet to come across a lighter combination, and it’s perfectly suitable for home useage, too.
While made of steel and therefore significantly heavier than the Wolf Tooth option, Feedback Sports does a good value two-in-one bottom bracket/cassette wrench which can be a space-efficient substitute if you need to work with both external and internal-type lockrings (some bikes use a mix of both). Meanwhile, those merely needing to work with internal-type lockrings have many options, but I’ve been quite impressed by the IceToolz 09C5 lockring socket (approx US$10) that is driven by an 8 mm hex key.
Once that’s all sorted you’ll need a way to keep them all together and away from scratching your bike. Tool rolls are popular, but I find they just add bulk and weight when assembling for such a minimalist tool kit. Rather my go-to is a hand-sewn, zippered canvas satchel – overkill but fun. An old musette, especially if it’s zippered, is equally good. The tool section of your local hardware store is likely to have some zippered organiser cases that can be excellent for this purpose. Alternatively, you may find that a pencil case or small cosmetics bag is equally good for the task.
Inflation
How to top up your tyres (don’t deflate them for travel) and to check pressures is an age-old debate. Personally, I think the days of packing a floor pump in with the bike are long gone. Today, there are options for dedicated travel floor pumps (meh), frame pumps, surprisingly efficient mini pumps, or the newer world of small rechargeable electric tyre inflators.
If you’re one to ride with a good mini pump or frame pump, than that’s your answer – use that. I’d suggest adding a small gauge to know your pressures prior to setting off for the ride, but otherwise, you’re good to go. Consider an alternative if you have a teeny tiny mini pump that’s a pain to use outside of emergencies.
I’m strongly of the opinion that a small electric inflator is the ultimate travel pump. In fact, I haven’t done a single bike trip over the past five years without my Fumpa in tow. That Fumpa, which I also use as a floor pump replacement at home, offers a gauge I trust and efficient inflation, all in a 375 g package that easily fits in with the rest of my tools. Should I need to, it’s recharged via the same USB-C cable as many other devices.
A kit I travelled with for an overseas Field Test back at CyclingTips. Have changed a few things since then, but the Fumpa has remained.
Want something smaller to also pack along for the ride? A few months back I tested a handful of portable electric tyre inflators and found the surprisingly compact Cycplus AS2 Pro to be one of the more compelling options. It’s roughly half the speed of the Fumpa, and there are some concessions if you’re using plastic-valved TPU tubes, but otherwise it’s a great travel option to top up tyres and confirm pressures before the ride and then take it with you.
If I’m travelling with/to a mountain bike, I’ll add a compact-sized shock pump. Lezyne, Birzman, and Topeak all offer shock pumps that are approximately half the size of a regular one. They’re pretty handy to ride with when setting up a bike, too.
Spare parts and consumables to pack
Along with the basic tools and a small electric tyre inflator, you’ll find a bunch of other random bits and pieces in my travel kit.
- Chain lube – Your choice here. Sample-sized bottles of chain lube are awesome for short trips away. Alternatively, you can re-fill an eye-dropper bottle or even smaller, one of those fish-shaped soy sauce tubes (thanks Mike Blewitt for this tip).
- A rag – something small to wipe down the chain with.
- Grease – This is a ‘just in case’. Fill a 5 or 10 ml medical-type syringe (free from many pharmacies if you ask nicely) with a general grease, and pop it into a zip-lock bag.
- Carbon grease – Another ‘just in case’ for me. The small sealed sachets provided with many new bikes are ideal here.
- Spare derailleur hanger – Unless you have a UDH frame, the chances are low of finding an exact match for your hanger at a destination bike shop. You may never need it, but Murphy’s Law suggests you should pack one. New hangers will be straight to themselves, but can sit crooked once installed on a frame – get it aligned for your frame before packing it.
- Spare bolts – For the size and weight of a few tiny bolts, it’s worth the peace of mind. I recommend a spare cleat bolt and a M5x15 mm cap-head bolt.
- Spare chain quick-link – Make sure it matches your chain. You’ll likely need a chain breaker in the event you need it (but not a quick link plier). One to consider.
- Tubeless valve – I’ve seen valves get damaged in transit or valve cores bent. A worthwhile addition if you’re on tubeless.
- Hand wipes – I highly rate packing a single-use degreasing hand wipe for when things get messy. Alternatively, some baby wipes in a zip-lock bag will achieve much the same.
- Zip-ties – You never know when you’ll need zip-ties.
- Electrical tape – Small, light, and handy for random quick fixes, and can be used for rewrapping the bike on the return leg.
- Masking tape – Very optional, but I simply prefer to use masking tape when wrapping my bikes up for travel.
- Derailleur charger – One only applicable to those with electric shifting.
- Spare SRAM eTap battery – For those with SRAM eTap/AXS bikes, a spare battery is tiny and provides plenty of peace of mind. Plus, don’t forget that spare CR2023 for the shifter.
- 60 ml bottle of tubeless tyre sealant – Travelling with tubeless? Make sure you have fresh sealant prior to travel (and again don’t wholly deflate your tyres). A small bottle of sealant can come in handy in the event you get a puncture and need to top-up.
- Spare brake pads – This is one only applicable for those travelling to a place where the worry of wearing through pads is a legimate concern (most likely off-road useage).
- Mini bleed kit – Bottom of the list for a reason. This is more for those nervous that they may not have properly bled their brakes. There are some neat portable bleed funnels now in the market, with credit to Neutron Components for the original.
The just-in-case tools
Taking just what you need and nothing more is likely the right approach for most, especially if you’re travelling into a region with bike shops. But what if you need to be self-sufficient and plan for the unexpected? This is where that minimalist kit can quickly blow out.
There are a few questions to ask yourself. Are you expecting to do the assembly for the bikes of others in a group? How do those bikes differ from yours? What exactly are the bikes you’re travelling with? Is it a simple mechanical-everything road bike? Perhaps it’s a gravel bike with tubeless tyres and hydraulic discs? Or maybe it’s a full-suspended mountain bike? And then ask yourself whether you honestly need the tools and parts for the bike/s you’re travelling with. Equally important, are you confident in using the tools? Asking yourself this will greatly help in creating a list of tools you’ll need, tools you may need, and tools you’re unlikely to use.
Next steps would be to peruse through my previous lists of beginner and intermediate tools to assess which of these common tools you may or may not need. Personally, there typically isn’t much beyond the absolute basics that I’ll pack.
A tape measure often comes in handy to confirm saddle heights or the like. The smallest and lightest tape measure you can find is likely the right answer here, and I have treasured Pedro’s mini tape that came with a larger pro kit long ago that I love for its keyring-like size. For the times I’m travelling to a bike (such as at a product launch or the rare times I plan to hire), I’ll also throw in an 80 mm saddle tool (along with my own saddle) for quickly dialling in the fit.
My most minimal travel toolkit. I take this collection of tools to bike launches when I’m confident the brand will have its own mechanics present.
Another tool I’ve found invaluable is a tiny plier-based multi-tool. I like the Leatherman Style PS (sadly now discontinued), a keyring-sized tool I’ve used to remove and tighten valve cores, file down a rock-damaged rim brake rim (too much gravel on 25s), cut through zip-ties, and plenty more things. In light of it being discontinued, I’d suggest looking at the Knipex Cobra XS, a tiny version of the best slip-joint plier in the world. Alternatively, a multi-tool like the SOG Aegis MT or Powerpint (US$50) is bigger and heavier than the Leatherman, but also packs in more capability.
I’ll also pack a real tyre lever that I trust for removing stubborn tyres and other lever-related tasks. For me this is a single Pedro’s lever, and chances are I’d have one in the saddle pack on the bike, anyhow. Meanwhile if I’m travelling with a Shimano-equipped bike, I’ll chuck a cheap Shimano TL-FC16 preload tool in. It’s light and I’ve needed it after a chain jumped off the ring in transit and got wrapped up beneath the chainring (this is why some people will zip-tie the chain to the chainring … just don’t forget those cutters!).
The list beyond this gets highly subjective based on many factors, including the parts you may have a propensity to break, the type of riding you plan to do, and even the weather that awaits.
Wrap up
When all is said and done, my minimalist travel-sized tool kit (such as the one pictured at the very top) typically hits the scales at around 1.4 kg (3 lbs), including the carry case, consumables, and Fumpa pump. Of course, those stressing every gram could manage with less. And those planning a trip where they’re likely to play mechanic for the whole group may consider packing a little more.
Despite nearly two decades of experience in doing it, I still find travelling with a bike in tow to be a little tedious. Experiencing new places on wheels makes it all worthwhile – though a little extra preparation has proven to help ensure I get to maximise those rides and not sweat the oversized baggage queue.
Got some tips or tools you feel I’ve overlooked? Please share them in the comments.
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